Thursday, April 20, 2006

Holy Thursday (Jueves Santo)

We signed up for the MWR Tour to Sevilla since this is the biggest and most famous celebration in Spain. Driving there is out of the question because the downtown area is pretty much shut down and the parking areas are outside the city. The bus left at noon and arrived about 2:30 with one rest stop. After getting city maps from the Tourist Information Center by the Cathedral, the tour guide took us the central viewing area where all the processions will be passing through.

There were bleachers with barricades set up in front along the route for the floats to pass through. Walking down the streets was a bit dangerous because the candle wax droppings were thick due to the week-long processions and the heat of the sun had made it slippery.








We had ice cream at McDonalds since it was very hot and then walked around because the first procession was not due to pass by until 5:00 pm. The locals were dressed up for the occassion with women wearing their black 'mantillas' for the mourning. I first took snapshots as they walked by but they came out blurry so I decided to just ask them. They were very accommodating and I even had three couples pose for a group picture.


This solo shot reminded me one of Inay's picture where she was wearing a white dress. Very elegant and distinguished. One of the men asked me if I was Japanese - probably because I had 2 cameras hanging on my neck. They also gave us 3 religious postcards of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary.


We decided to go to one of the churches and observe the float as it left the church. We saw a Nazareno walking by and just followed him. We walked through alleys and pretty soon we were following more of them until we finally got to the church. They were just forming up at the back of the church and there were also young boys and girls. They didn't have their caps on yet because it was too hot.

We walked around to the front of the church which was small and not very prominent. It was part of the whole block and wedged between business establishments. There was a lot of people there already so we picked a spot directly infront which had a small tree for a bit of shade.

The float didn't come out until about 5:30 and people were packed tight. There was a couple infront of me sitting on plastic chairs and a big family behind me with an old woman on a wheelchair who was just plain loud. When I moved to my left for a better view, she scolded me right away because I was blocking her but settled down a bit when she saw that I was taking pictures. Mom was able to move closer but there were tall people infront of her so she had to extend her hand up to take pictures. This float depicted the Agony in the Garden.

It was taking a long time for the procession to move because of the congestion so we decided not to wait for the Virgen Dolorosa float to come out and started heading back around 6:15. Our bus was supposed to leave at 7:15 and we we're worried about getting stuck behind the crowd and the other processions. We had to detour a few times to avoid the congestion and made it to the meeting point at the Torre de Oro (below) at 7:00.

The bus left on time and arrived on base around 9:30. The trip was a bit longer this time because the driver used a different road to avoid the traffic.

Holy Wednesday (Miercules Santo)

The procession started from the Capilla de la Caridad which had a llittle more space in the front. Barricades were set up to provide enough room for the procession to pass through so this was a bit more organized and controlled. Mom positioned herself near the entrance while I positioned myself towards the front. There was a big crowd already and people were out there on their balconies also.

The church doors were just opened and you can see the Cruz de Guia behind the lead Nazareno.









The Nazarenos have varying degrees of seniority and can be determined by his location in the procession and the type and color of his scepter.











The ornately dressed acolytes/candle bearers came next ahead of the El Paso de Cristo.

The El Paso de Cristo float depicting Jesus Christ carrying the cross. The little head clearance is evident.

The Virgen Dolorosa float with a canopy came out next. The special effects was unintentional but it somehow highlighted the swaying effect of the tall candles.










Here are a couple of costaleros waiting to take up their positions once the float is outside. The cushion that they have on their head is the 'costal'.


Decorations on the El Palio float.

The band came out last as usual.

Holy Tuesday (Martes Santo)

The procession started from the Nuestra Senora dela O church and we came very early this time. These are pictures of the Castilla dela Luna which is just to the left of the church and the church facade.










There were penitentes including children carrying tall candles and crosses this time. The people along the way had to guide the crosses as they passed by to avoid getting hit. They normally march ahead of the Palio float which is in the background just inside the church entrance.


















There was only one float and this one depicted Jesus Christ after He was condemned to die on the Cross. Again, the floor is covered with red flowers.

Note the intricate woodcarving and design similar to the Philippines.

More penitentes carrying crosses and candles followed after the float. This was the composition of the procession but was very long because of the number of participants. The long wait also allows for personal meditation.

It was a solemn procession without the band and the crowd was very quiet except when they clap to acknowledge the costaleros' skills in maneuvering the float out of the church. The church doors are closed once the procession has left and upon returning and are only open for meditation during the day.

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

Holy Monday (Lunes Santo)

Parked on base and just walked over to the Parroquia del Carmen church. We came early and still didn't get a good spot but we were a little bit closer to the church entrance. There wasn't much room in front of the church and the street was narrow.

Here's the La Cruz de Guia (Guide Cross) leading the procession. We had to stay infront of the church to wait for the two floats to come out and then had to run through the alleys to get to the front and take pictures. Mom stayed on the sidewalk for the stills while I climbed up on the railing to shoot videos.

There were two floats this time - one depicting Jesus Christ on the cross and the Virgen Dolorosa. The first float was smaller and lighter than a regular 'paso' and the 'costaleros' (float carriers) were outside around the float and not wearing the pointed caps. The bed of the float is covered with red flowers. Not sure what the symbolism was but I think it was either for blood or suffering.


















Once it was outside, the priest standing on the balcony above the entrance recited the introductory prayers of the Stations of the Cross and then the First Station.




The float for the Virgen Dolorosa came out afterwards and it was decorated with tall candles and flowers which was the most common setup. Unlike the bigger churches, the float does not have a canopy supported by the 'varales' which accentuates the swaying motion created by the 'costaleros' as they march.









The band followed afterwards with the 'costaleros' swaying the float in time with the music. Here are pictures of mom's co-worker who was a band member and the little drummer boy.









The acolytes performing their duties while being watched by the 'manangs' (hermanas). Note their 'escapularios'.









The 'penitentes' leading the 'Virgen Dolorosa' float.









The 'costaleros' carrying the 'Virgen Dolorosa' float. They are dressed like the 'penitentes' since they're outside. Note how tight their formation is.










Mom took this picture after the procession passed.