Introduction

Some of the information and pictures below were derived from the Internet to properly identify the terms and meanings that pertain to Semana Santa and then mixed in with my personal experiences and observations.

Semana Santa (Holy Week/Easter) has been one of the most important celebrations in Spain especially Seville and are coordinated by the Cofradías (Brotherhoods or Fraternities). They process in penitence through the many narrow streets of the city; from their church to the Cathedral and back, taking the shortest possible route, as decreed in the rule of the ordinances by Cardenal Niño de Guevara in the 17th century. The inner city where the processions pass through are pretty much closed to vehicular traffic.

Starting on Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday), and ending on Domingo de Resurrección (Easter Sunday), there are 57 brotherhoods that pay the religious visit to the Cathedral of Seville, the third largest Cathedral in the world. All of the processions from each church are required to go past the Cathedral. Barricades are set along the routes and bleachers/seats are arranged behind these barricades.

Unlike in the Philippines where multiple floats (pasos) are brought out for the processions, Spain mostly uses two. It's either a float with a Christ representing the distinct stages of the Passion, Death and Resurrection, and a float with a Dolorosa (Mary the Virgin in pain) under a canopy. Some brotherhoods even carry three floats, like the so-called: El Amor, La Cena, San Benito, or la Trinidad, others have just one like Santa Marta, La Quinta Angustia, la Soledad de San Buenaventura, or la Soledad de San Lorenzo. These floats are brought out on the specific days of Semana Santa.

In the eight days of Semana Santa, (including Domingo de Ramos/Palm Sunday), a total of 57 brotherhoods carry their 116 floats from their church to the Cathedral and back in the company of around 60,000 brothers participating in their different appearances.

Here's a brief description of the procession's components:

La Cruz de Guía: Literally translated, it is a guide cross and is a banner which opens the procession with two Nazarenos carrying lanterns on either side.

Nazarenos (Nazarenes): Members of the fraternities which make up the procession. They carry candles and banners wearing tunics, an antifaz (the piece of cloth covering the faces of nazarenos and penitents) and a capirote (the cardboard cone inside the antifaz, keeping it upright on the head). Seeing the outfits for the first time was a little shocking because it reminds anyone of the Klu Klux Klan and was a very common reaction for people from the US. Each fraternity has their own designated color and emblem.

Penitents: The Penitents are the members of the fraternity who perform the authentic act of penitence, carrying a wooden cross, sometimes two, and frequently walking barefoot the whole distance of the procession. In many cases this is still done as an act of fulfilment of a promise to Christ. Penitents are dressed like the Nazarenos, but they don't have a capirote, which leaves the upper part of the antifaz hanging backwards. The penitents follow directly after el Paso del Cristo. This is the equivalent of our flagellants 'penitensiya' but they don't inflict punishment on themselves and just walk in silence.

Costaleros (float carriers): These are 20-30 strong men from the brotherhood that carry the floats on their heads/shoulders/backs throughout the whole procession. They use a cushion called 'costal' which is placed on their head and back to prevent direct contact of skin to the wood. Some church entrances are narrow and low and they have to almost get down on their knees to make it through. They practice as a group to ensure that they are all in step during the procession. This is also the ultimate sacrifice because the processions usually last at least 4 hours winding through the narrow streets and the only breaks they have are when the float stops for each station of the cross. The carriers are underneath the floats and only their feet can be seen as they move along. They are guided along by the 'capataz' or overseer using verbal commands or by hitting his hammer certain times on a metal plate in front of the float.

Acolytes: These are the altar servers and are dressed appropriately in white tunics and they carry candles, myrrh and incense.

La Marcha: The musical compositions played by a brass band accompanying the majority of the floats and are called Fraternity marches. A lot of them are beautiful pieces of music, such as Amargura, Virgen del Valle, and Jesús de las Penas. The costaleros march to the beat of this music as they carry the floats and their movements create the swaying motion of the canopy.

La Bulla: Crowds of people around the floats in certain areas along the routes of the fraternities.

Un Paso: It is a float or portable platform and all the images and elements it contains. The float may carry an image of Christ, of the Virgin or a Mystery (a set of images which represent a scene from the Passion of Christ). A Paso is carried by the costaleros from the brotherhood and are directed by the capataz.

El Paso del Cristo: This is the float that carries an image of Christ or a Mystery (a set of images which represent a scene from the Passion of Christ) and is generally the first float.

El Paso Palio: El Paso Palio is the float which carries La Virgen, also called La Dolorosa (the hurt), La Amargura (the bitterness), or more optimistic La Esperanza (the hope). For the people of Seville this is the most important part of the procession. They may wait hours on a strategic location to see "their" Virgen pass by that particular spot.

For the Sevillians, each Virgen is different, unique and special, although for the visiting foreigner they may all seem the same (but don't ever dare saying that to the local people!). This is because, unlike the floats of Christ, that carry different representations, the floats of the Virgen all represent the same moment of the biblical history; the Holy Mother crying for the death of her son.

The one representation which has many differences in its details is the El Manto, the huge piece of rich fabrics which are delicately embroidered and flows from the statue of the Virgen over a hard support covering the back of the float.

The float itself has a canopy, supported by the Varales, like a protective roof over the Virgin. Many of them are true jewels of silver and gold craftsmanship and embroidery. The Varales are the twelve vertical poles of the float, which are decorated with works of gold and silver as well. These poles are connected rather loosely, so that the characteristic swaying movement of the Costaleros can be transmitted to the float.

While Semana Santa is a national tradition throughout Spain, the "Andalucians" arguably "feel" the week more than other regions of Spain. Throughout eight days, Andalucia is surrounded by a spiritual halo. Semana Santa is a tradition which is repeated year after year; a time when the devout and curious join together to participate in the procession and converge on the streets and squares which take on the ambience and mystique of an open air temple.

The skill and expertise behind the parades rest with the religious fraternities and brotherhoods. They have the responsibility of maintaining the statues as well as coordinating the penitents and musicians. Sometimes up to two thousand members of a brotherhood take part, some carry candles, rods or banners depending on their level of seniority. The most senior is the president who carries a golden rod.

The high point of the procession is when the float exits and enters the respective church. This is the moment when art and religion seem to merge into one. Sculptures of images created by superb craftsmen dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries can still be seen today. The entire scene is alive with colour and sound, thanks to the polychromatic variety of tunics, hoods, ensigns and banners. Emotions are stirred by the slow rythmic beating of the drums and processional marches, the swaying paces of the bearers and the poignant wailing of the "saeta" which is a sacred song similar to the flamenco and sung through the Holy Week processions.

Even if you are not religious, it is difficult not to be moved, the atmosphere is so vital and poignant. For some it is a fun filled fiesta time, for others a week of ritual and reflection. Without a doubt, Holy Week in Andalucia is a tradition that is an integral part of the culture and appropriately reflects the spirit of the people.